The Empire of the Fox

In the fog, I could see dark shapes moving in parallel to us, watching us. I immediately realized that these were Arctic foxes, the only original Icelandic wild animal!

I broke off from my group, digging around in my jacket for my camera. I felt like Richard Attenborough; I could get great pictures and show them off to family and friends. I felt elated and literally ran towards the foxes.

I really got close to them, but the pictures were perhaps not that great (what do you think?).

Then I realized that I was alone in the fog with the foxes, and it was really quiet. I have to admit that I was a bit unnerved. I am, to be honest, not that great at finding my way. My wife frequently has to correct me when I am driving around in Reykjavik, but here I was truly lost.

I had, after all, just arrived at the Hornstrandir Natural Reserve in the extreme North West in the West Fjords of Iceland, far away from civilization.  To my embarrassment, I had to shout to my fellow travelers several times before they heard me and replied, so I could find them. They didn´t comment as they know me and my tendency to bolt off and my utter lack of sense of direction. Oh, the joys of traveling with family.

We had just landed at Hornvík cove and we had some walking to to do in the fog until we would arrive at our destination which was Hornbjargsviti light house.

You can only get there by boat, but this time we weren´t able to land at the usual drop-off point near the lighthouse because the seas were rough. The captain took one look at the kids we were traveling with and did not want to take any chances at the landing at Hornbjargsviti in the cove called Látravík. So he took us around for an easier landing at Hornvík. The walk was easy, and in spite of the fog, you couldn´t really get lost if you stuck to the track, which I didn´t.

Just to clarify, you don´t really stay at the lighthouse itself but in a large house adjacent to it. This is the former residence of the lighthouse keeper, which is currently rented out by the Icelandic Touring Association. So if you are interested in staying there or finding out more you can contact them I suppose.

A lot of people explore this wonderful area on foot, just bringing their backpacks, tents, and a sense of adventure. If you want more comfort (shower, roof over your head, water toilets and a bed) I recommend the Hornbjargsviti light house.

We had a great time exploring the beautiful surroundings which are incredibly varied. Just remember to be careful around the cliffs and respect the sensitive environment. Take nothing but pictures and leave nothing behind.

But I was going to talk about the foxes. When the first settlers arrived in Iceland in the ninth century (or perhaps earlier) they were settling an island that had no indigenous mammal. Except, of course, for the Arctic fox. Traditionally, farmers have considered the fox a nuisance because it would snatch lambs or hunt seabirds, which were an important food source in the past. So foxes are hunted to keep their numbers down.

Here in a natural reserve, foxes are protected along with everything else, and the whole area is really a paradise for foxes. There are few humans around to bother them, there are plenty of seabirds to hunt, and there is a lot of fresh water. In fact, I would wager that this area contains one of the best drinking waters on the whole planet. How sweet it is!

To cut a long story short, we did see a lot of foxes. In fact, you didn´t have to go anywhere to get all close and personal with a fox. In fact, we got a visit from a fox every night, a vixen would show up to get food.

Our hosts, a married couple that ran a hotel at the lighthouse, told us that the vixen had a few cubs, which were probably two or three weeks ahead of other cubs at the same age, since their mother was clever enough to get an abundance of food from humans. And she truly did well out of it; all the leftover meat and fat were carried eagerly away by this resourceful animal. She would probably bury a lot of it for winter and be all set for it. Clever girl!

We also went for a walk one day when the weather was nothing short of perfect. We came across two fox lairs on our approximately 13KM trek, which took us from the lighthouse to the edge of the massive Hornbjarg cliffs and back.

I hadn´t realized that I was walking on a fox lair until I felt the very ground vibrate below me. I had wandered to the top of the lair and startled the inhabitants. I took a look around and realized how fantastically well-placed this lair was. Just a few meters from the edge of the cliffs, which were teeming with sea birds, and a well of the best fresh water I had ever tasted in my life. I must have spent half an hour lying with my head buried in that well!

We had more luck when we approached another lair. We saw remains of birds outside, as the fox typically is a messy eater. Also, foxes typically don´t eat their food right away; they like it to mature a bit.

Then we saw two cubs sticking their heads out, their curiosity getting the better of them. We watched them for a long time playing outside in the sun. They hardly noticed us while they played, but I suppose their mother was not far away.

Even if you don´t care for foxes, the whole area of Hornstrandir is a treasure trove. The massive cliffs are awesome, the seals floating in the sea or perched on rocks are a joy, and the massive log of driftwood that came all the way from Siberia is pretty cool too.

I can´t wait to go back one fine day.

How to get there
The only way to get to Hornstrandir in the North West of Iceland is by boat. You can try to contact The Icelandic Touring Association, which now runs the guesthouse at the Hornbjargsviti Light House, or check out the website of West Tours, which specializes in trips to the area. We here at Stuck in Iceland do not have any affiliation with those companies.

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