The retired headmaster and entrepreneur Stella Guðmundsdóttir is a legend in the Icelandic travel industry. She and her family run a unique country hotel on a converted farm in the valley of Heydalur, deep in the Westfjords.
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If you follow my magazine, you will know that I love this region of Iceland. Last summer, I traveled extensively around the Westfjords with my wife. One of our stops was the hotel at Heydalur. Unfortunately, we just had one night there; still, it was a delightful stop.
Family-run hotel
Stella and her family bought the farm twenty years ago and converted it into a hotel. Heydalur valley is now a model for sustainability and family-friendly travel. The adventurous and beginners alike can enjoy horseback riding tours and kayaking tours offered by the hotel.
Wash your feet in the blessed pool under watchful eyes
Heydalur farm is in the Mjóaförður fjord. We crossed a river near the farm to reach an ancient geothermally heated pool blessed by the catholic bishop Guðmundur the Good in the middle ages. Under a watchful eye of a local dog, we bathed our feet. The dog was protective of us. It led us across the river to the pool. Then it did not want us to go in too deep; perhaps the dog knew how hot the water was. Every time we dipped our feet into the pool it got antsy. Maybe it was worried that we would go skinny dipping which was not the plan!
Delicious homegrown food
You don’t need to cross a river to go for a bath. Heydalur has lovely natural geothermally heated outdoor pools. After the 130 KM drive to the hotel from Ísafjörður, getting in them was just what we needed. There is also an indoor pool at the hotel. We spotted the vat where the hotel staff breeds arctic char on our way to the ancient pool across the river. Vegetables and fruits are also grown in the greenhouse. The greenhouse also houses an indoor pool. The hotel restaurant offers all of this good stuff and tasty local lamb, which has delicious homegrown food on the menu.
Hey Stella, thank you for taking the time for this interview. How is 2022 looking for the Heydalur hotel?
We already have a few dates booked. The booking season is starting slow, but I feel good about this year despite the pandemic. I suppose the recent endorsement of Lonely Planet is helpful for us.
Can you tell me about the activities you offer at the Heydalur hotel?
We offer a variety of day tours. For example, we offer horseback riding tours for beginners and more experienced riders. We provide children to sit on a horse led by an adult for 15 – 20 minutes. Those who want to go kayaking are in luck at the Heydalur hotel. The staff can take you kayak riding, where you can often see seals and sometimes even whales. There are so many opportunities to go hiking in the hotel’s vicinity. The swimming pool and hot tubs are always popular. Still, I want to remind everybody that adults should always accompany children. Safety first!
Your hotel is one of the highest-rated hotels in the Westfjords. What is your secret?
Our focus is on sustainability and family-friendly travel. We source our geothermal hot water, and we are working on creating electricity from the stream that runs by the hotel. Our latest initiative for sustainability is our aquaponics project, where we link together our breeding of arctic char and our plant growing in the greenhouse here. We use the waste from the fish as fertilizer for our vegetables. Heydalur hotel has also planted some 120 thousand trees which are already starting to provide shelter from the weather. Our tree planting project continues in a new area in the valley.
The guiding light of Heydalur hotel
But our guiding light is only to make promises we can keep. We do our best to serve our guests the best we can. The owners and the staff work as one team, and we are all aware of our responsibility. We do our best to communicate the guests’ potential for activities in the area.
What are your favorite places in Iceland?
I have so many of them! Back in the day, I went on a long hike every summer. But I suppose my favorite place is Landmannalaugar. I also remember an eight-day trek in the remote Hornstrandir in the Westfjords. In good calm weather, a drive in the Djúpið, also in the Westfjords, is out of this world.
What advice would you give to those visiting Iceland and the Westfjords for the first time?
The Westfjords has a magnificent and rugged landscape. You need to have good hiking boots, water, and windproof clothing to enjoy it. Plan your trip and activity well, take your time, and book your hotel beforehand. You cannot rely on booking accommodation on short notice, at least not during the summertime.
