Instagram has brought fame to many places around the world. The latest Instagram sensation coming from Iceland is Stuðlagil. This canyon in the glacial river, Jökulsá á Brú, AKA Jökulsá á Dal, AKA Jöklal) in the east of Iceland. For the past two years or so, you could hardly open Instagram by seeing highly processed photos from the basalt column adorned canyon. Therefore I must apologize for my unimpressive photos of a beautiful place.
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Dam nation
This magnificent place only became visible after a highly controversial hydroelectric power plant at Kárahnjúkar to the south and upriver of Stuðlagil was built in 2007. One customer receives the electricity from the massive power plant, the aluminum smelter at Reyðarfjörður. While I appreciate that the aluminum smelter is an essential provider of jobs in a vulnerable area, the area’s ecological damage was immense. Relying on just one large job provider makes the region exposed to the whims of a single company. There is reasonable doubt of whether the Icelandic state-owned power company, which operates the power plant, is getting a fair price for its energy. Finally, the strong-arm tactics used to impose those two projects were just terrible. If you are interested in how it all went down, you can watch the documentary Dreamland. Be warned this is both sad and pathetic.
DREAMLAND documentary from Ground Control Productions on Vimeo.
Masterful sculptures made from basalt columns
But it is undeniable that the emergence of Stuðlagil is a positive outcome. Before the dam upriver, the magnificent basalt columns of the canyon were barely visible. Water from the glacial river was diverted via an underground tunnel to the turbines. The height of the river dropped some 7-8 meters (26 feet) as a consequence. The remaining river water runs low and often azure, or dark green, revealing nature’s masterful sculptures made of 30 meters (100 feet) high basalt columns.
Two vantage points for Stuðlagil Canyon
There at two vantage points to view the canyon. When I visited Stuðlagil canyon in the summer of 2020, an observation platform was under construction on one side of the canyon. But it has to be said that if you cross the bridge over the river, right next to a neighboring and walk a few kilometers, you can go right down to the river and immerse yourself in the beauty. So if you don’t mind walking a bit, you will be thrilled by the majestic basalt columns. I recommend doing that. But stay on the paths to avoid disturbing birds and minimize damage to the fields.
There were few people around when I viewed the canyon due to the pandemic. So I had a lot of time to explore. Walk upriver to see a fantastic view of the canyon. I spent a lot of time taking in all the beauty around me. Then the phone rang and jolted me wide awake. I was due to go to the wonderful Vök Baths at lake Urriðavatn near the town of Egilsstaðir. So it was time to get going.
Stay safe at Stuðlagil canyon.
As with so many destinations here in Iceland, you need to be careful while enjoying. Most importantly, do not get too close to the edge of the canyon. The basalt columns are fragile and prone to collapse. If you go down to the canyon, please do not go into the river. You may have some daredevils swim in the river, but for the love of Odin, please do not that. The currents in the river are strong and treacherous. Finally, it might be tempting to scale the steepness and height in the middle of the canyon, but since the rocks are wet and slippery, it is not a very good idea.
How to reach Stuðlagil Canyon
From highway 1, turn to road no. 923. Drive 19 KM (12 miles) to the farm of Grund where you can park your car. This is where an observation deck is. Alternatively, head to the nearby farm of Klaustursel. Park your car there, cross the bridge and walk about 5KM (3 miles) to the canyon.
