Words and pictures by Barbara Glover. We are grateful for her story about her learning knitting the Icelandic way.

Subscribe to my newsletter for exclusive discount codes that will give you savings on 150 Iceland tours and travel services.

Subscribe to the Stuck in Iceland newsletter
Receive exclusive promo codes for tours, car rental, camper van rental, and outdoor clothing rental. Get occasional updates about new content. I will never give your data to a third party without consent.

Thank you
Jon Heidar, Editor of Stuck in Iceland Travel Magazine

A woman knits trolls the Icelandic way.
The author knits trolls the Icelandic way out of Icelandic wool.

No pain, no gain!

“Ouch!” I cry as I jab my finger with the needle for a second time. The multi-colored, felted wool balls, ribbons, and buttons are spread across the table, waiting for me to select. Would my troll be black, brown, white, grey, or some mixed combination? I could add red wool for hair on his head or feet. So many choices await me, and I am still practicing my stitches. Glancing around, I see my friend is already bent over her wool, assembling a troll. Gayle’s fingers deftly work the needle, pushing it in and out of the two woolen balls, as her brown troll starts to take shape. She is a quick study using the long needle. I wonder if I’ll catch on.

Woman with Icelandic wool.
Ragnheiður Jóhannsdóttir patiently teaches her students to knit the Icelandic way.

“Just keep trying,” comes the patient voice of Ragna, (Ragnheiður Jóhannsdóttir), who teaches the troll making workshop we are attending. “You just need more patience.” The Icelandic Trolls Workshop is offered by Culture and Craft. They host many of their workshops at Hotel Laxness in Mosfellsbær, which is about 30 minutes by car or bus from Reykjavik. The workshop runs a few hours, and you can order a beer or other cold beverage from the bar. It’s a family-friendly activity that a lot of kids enjoy, as well as adults.

Fascinating trolls

“Trolls are active at night and must take care at dawn,” Ragna explains to us as we assemble our trolls. “Trolls have to hide. When the morning light dawns, they will be petrified.” We learn trolls are interquel to many Icelandic legends from around the country, from the West Fjords to the south-eastern corner near Höfn. Ragna then discusses how Icelandic wool is exceptional for making trolls because it is very coarse. “I agree,” Gayle chimes in, “The coarseness seems to really help the woolen balls stick together for troll construction.” Meanwhile, I stare perplexed at the wide array of natural wool colors before me. I struggle to choose amongst the chocolate brown, warm sugar-white, or volcanic black.

Knitting the Icelandic way at any skill level

In addition to troll making, Culture and Craft offer workshops in knitting and needlepoint. The most popular workshop is three hours of knitting for any skill level. The group will consist of no more than eight participants and includes a soup lunch, two skeins of léttlopi (soft wool), a pattern, and a circular knitting needle. Ragna describes how participants can choose between learning the Continental knitting style or how to use two or three colors simultaneously. A few advanced participants might learn both. During the workshop, the instructor discusses the history and importance of knitting in Iceland. She tells how different regions have different motif styles.

Not only knitting. Hvammstangi has it all

Culture and Craft offer a four-day knitting experience where one learns detailed, intricate Icelandic knitting styles, castings, and the history of the knitting industry. This experience gives you a more in-depth view of Icelandic knitting. Often these experiences are set in northern Iceland near the village of Hvammstangi. The village is famous for Kolugljufur Waterfall, the Icelandic Seal Centre, and the Wool Factory Shop. In addition to knitting, there are opportunities on the itinerary to see wildlife and visit local crafters.

Assembling the troll

I try to envision learning to knit, as I continue to assemble my troll. I select the sugar-white woolen fiber. Gradually I fall into the rhymical motions of pushing and pulling the needle through the balls of wool. My troll takes shape as I add feet, a nose, hair, and eyes. In the end, Gayle and I admire our handiwork. Our trolls are complete and unique creations, just like many of the trolls in the Icelandic legends of old.