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Herðubreiðalindir is an exotic place for most Icelanders. When I was invited to visit Kverkjöll, I was delighted to learn that we would stop there. It is a famous place. I have often seen beautiful photos online or on TV where the iconic ‘Queen of Icelandic mountains,” Mt. Herðubreið, plays a leading role. I have a dream of scaling that mountain, but it is apparently a tough climb.
Vibrant green in the Icelandic desert
Herðubreiðalindir is remote enough to be out of reach for most people. The northern highlands is mostly a dry, sandy, or rocky wasteland, which would look quite at home in a Mad Max film.
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But all of a sudden, you come to this vibrantly green place with the symmetrical impressive mountain, Herðubreið, rising above it. Underground springs emerge at Herðubreiðarlindir from the lava fields, and plants take full advantage. One plant that adorns Herðubreiðarlindir is the beautiful Angelica (pictured in the image at the top in the foreground).
Finding the outlaw’s lair, complete with indoor plumbing
When I arrived there, my first thought was to find the remains of the hut of the legendary outlaw Eyvindur, who was a bogeyman of Icelandic farmers in the 18th century. He and his paramour, Halla, lived on the run for two decades, often in squalid conditions, living on stolen livestock, roots, berries, or whatever they could scrounge up. Eyjólfur’s shelter is not very impressive. The lair is a square trench with rocks piled up to form a wall on one side. This hole in the ground does have one interesting feature, a spring with clear water bubbles up within its confines. So Eyjólfur at least enjoyed indoor plumbing.
Washing is weird, dude
Eyvindur was eccentric in the minds of his fellow Icelanders. He was a mountain-dwelling outlaw, living in the highlands, an area that terrified most people. But it was his regular bathing was considered odd. My interest in time travel to Iceland to this era is absolutely zero. My nose is just too sensitive.
It was not a long stop at Herðubreiðarlindir. My brother-in-law was gracious enough to walk with me to show me Eyvindur’s lair. Herðubreiðarlind is a beautiful place, and if you are in the area, it is a must-visit place. Above the oasis towers Mt. Herðubreið that dominates this northern wasteland.
How to get to Herðubreiðarlindir
Drive to Herðubreiðarlindir from Lake Mývatn on highway one. Turn on road no. F88. Before driving in the Icelandic highlands make sure you study and follow safety advice on driving on SafeTravel website.
