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For decades, Hlemmur was where Reykjavík waited for the bus. People stood in the cold and watched the buses come and go. It was also a sanctuary for the down-and-out. Homeless men would hang around, trying to get some warmth while they nursed their moonshine. A kiosk sold hot dogs, dodgy sandwiches, and bus tickets.
In the late seventies and early eighties, Hlemmur was a hub for the burgeoning punk scene. Punk arrived late in Iceland, and it was, first and foremost, an expression of rebellion by the first generation of urban youth Iceland had ever seen.
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In 2017, the city renovated the old bus station and turned it into a food hall, Hlemmur Mathöll. We were over the moon. One of our favorite things to do on city trips is visiting food halls and markets, like Foodhallen in Amsterdam and the late Papirøen in Copenhagen (God rest its soul). Now Reykjavík has one of its own.
I will never forget when Hlemmur Food Hall opened. I took Hallveig, my wife, there for champagne to celebrate getting the deed for the apartment we now live in. I said: “Can you believe we are drinking champagne at Hlemmur?” And we both burst out laughing. Gentrification had triumphed over Reykjavík’s grimiest place.
Hlemmur Mathöll is our firm favorite
Since Hlemmur opened, more food halls have opened in Reykjavík. There is Grandi Mathöll by the old harbor, Höfði Mathöll, and Kringlan Mathöll inside the shopping mall. They are all fine, especially the one in Grandi, but Hlemmur remains our firm favorite. It is small enough to feel like a neighborhood place, and nobody is in a hurry. You can come for a quick lunch or stay the whole evening with friends.
I will be honest with you, though. There are seven stalls here, and I order the same thing every time. Typical behavior from a 50+ year old man!
The lamb burger at Fjárhúsið
Fjárhúsið means the sheep shed, and the name tells you what they do. Icelandic lamb, cooked by people who clearly love it. Their lamb burger is the reason I walk to Hlemmur.
Icelandic sheep roam the mountains all summer and eat wild grass and herbs, and you taste it in the meat. Put that in a bun, and you have something no other city can quite copy. Whoever first thought of it deserves the Order of the Falcon, the highest honor Iceland gives. I would sign the nomination myself.
So yes, I know I should try more of the menu. Maybe next time. Probably not.
The other stalls
If you have more willpower than I do, there is plenty more to eat. Seven stalls share the hall, so a group can split up and meet back at the same table.
| Stall | What they serve | Open |
|---|---|---|
| Fjárhúsið | Icelandic lamb, including that burger | 11:00–21:00 |
| Flatey Pizza | Neapolitan-style pizza | 11:00–22:00 |
| Kröst | Burgers and bistro plates | 11:30–21:00 |
| Snaps | Bistro food | 11:30–21:00 |
| Namaste | Indian and Nepalese food | 11:00–21:00 |
| Halló xin cháo | Vietnamese food | 11:00–22:00 |
| Gaeta | Italian gelato | 14:00–22:00 |
Opening hours are from the hall’s own list in October 2026. They change from time to time, so check their Facebook page before you go.
Skál, which we recommended in earlier versions of this article, is no longer in the hall.
Practical bits
- Where: Hlemmur, at the top of Laugavegur, a short walk from the city centre.
- Getting there: Hlemmur is still one of the main stops for the city buses, so it is easy to reach from anywhere in Reykjavík.
- Outside: The city is rebuilding the square in front of the hall, with a play area for children and a small stage. It is about three-quarters done, so expect some fences and diggers on the way in for a while yet.
- When to go: Lunch on a weekday, or an easy evening with friends.
My advice is the same as for the rest of your trip. Don’t rush it. Get your food, find a seat, and watch Reykjavík go by for a while. If you are traveling as a couple, it is a good, easy dinner after a day out.
How to find Hlemmur Food Hall (Hlemmur Mathöll)
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