Bessi Jonsson is Iceland’s ultimate private guide. He is a bear of a man, gregarious and easygoing, always ready to share a good story or a slightly politically incorrect joke. Bessi claims to run the travel company Moonwalker, but all his friends know his real boss is his dog Cami. These two have a special bond but distinct roles in their tours. Bessi drives the Land Rover and tells stories, while Cami ensures that everybody aboard the huge Moonwalker Land Rover is comfortable and attended to. Cami is a smart girl who carefully divides her attention to all humans equally.

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Bessi is in his element on a glacier with his Land Rover and great friends.
Bessi is in his element on a glacier with his Land Rover and great friends.

Me and my wife I, the singer Hallveig Rúnarsdóttir have joined Bessi on tour to volcano Hekla and Landmannalaugar with an American couple I still keep in touch with on Facebook. We were very different from our travel companions, but Bessi’s and Cami’s skills turned us into a group of instant old friends. As it is in Iceland, the weather was changeable, but Bessi and Cami ensured it didn’t matter. Bessi is a busy man. He zooms around the highlands in his huge Land Rover with travelers who want to do something different on their Iceland tour. He has many ready-made tours that will take you to Iceland’s most famous landmarks or routes, but I am sure he is happy to arrange a tailor-made tour for you. His Land Rovers will take you anywhere here in Iceland.

Hey Bessi. Thank you for taking the time for this interview. When did you start driving travelers around Iceland, and how did you get started?

Hey there Jón! I just wanted to say a huge THANK YOU for our last trip – it was an absolute blast!

The King of Vestrahorn.
The King of Vestrahorn.

 

Before I started Moonwalker, I had a boring office job that I hated. After eight long years of sitting in a cramped office, my body had become a couch potato, and my mind was screaming for freedom. I knew I had to make a change, so I quit my job and took some time off to ponder my existence. Growing up in the countryside of north Iceland, I spent my days outdoors, surrounded by nature and animals. I’ve had my fair share of odd jobs ranging from farm work to fish cutting and slaughterhouses. I even worked as a bodyguard in South Korea for a while. So, it’s no surprise that office life wasn’t cutting it for me. The only thing I enjoyed about it was showing off my beautiful country to foreign business partners. I’d take them on horseback rides, whale-watching tours, and more. Then, on one fateful camping trip with my girlfriend, we were overtaken by a convoy of massive Landrovers filled with giddy tourists heading off on an epic adventure. That’s when it hit me – that’s the job I want! I know Iceland like the back of my hand and Landrovers like the front of my hand, so why not combine the two and start my own tour company? I must have been convincing because my girlfriend agreed to take the leap with me, and we launched Moonwalker on July 1st, 2014. No way that I could have done this without her.

Although Stuck in Iceland is a family-friendly magazine, I am well aware that readership must be boosted with this kind of sensual imagery.

You love Land Rovers A LOT. Why is that?

Oh boy, LandRovers are the absolute BOMB! If you’re not getting down and dirty while driving, are you even living your life? The Defender is the ultimate beast for thrill-seekers, explorers, and adventurers. You don’t need some lame-o, smooth-driving truck with leather seats to go on a wild ride. Nope, you need the Defender to take on the roughest terrains and the harshest conditions. Who needs air conditioning and heated seats when you can feel the elements whipping through your hair and flooding your floors as you tackle a raging river crossing? And forget about pristine car windows; we’ve got moss growing on ours! Your average fancy new truck can’t even compare to the Defender’s rugged, all-terrain capabilities.

I’ve been a fan of LandRovers since I was a wee little kiddo. I probably started driving one when I was only eight years old. If you’re not driving a Defender, you’re missing out on a whole world of excitement and adventure.

 

This is a strange question, but I have sometimes wondered about it. Have you trained Cami to be a companion dog, or is she just a natural talent?

Believe it or not, I didn’t train Cami to be the way she is. It’s just who she is at her core. Cami has the most enormous heart and genuinely cares about everyone around her. I know every pet owner thinks their furry friend is the greatest and most loving, but Cami is truly on another level. I mean, you’ve met her, right? She’s just bursting with personality and charm!

There is fun to be had at a top of a glacier.

What is the most memorable request you have gotten from travelers?

I have confidential privacy with my clients, so I can´t tell you the weirdest things. But what I love most about my job is being a part of people’s cherished memories. From romantic honeymooners to lively bachelor/bachelorette parties, I’ve had the privilege of accompanying them on their journeys. I even had the honor of taking a 93-year-old lady to the top of Langjökull glacier and traveling with families during their most difficult moments when a family member was terminally ill. They really wanted to enjoy their last moments together and forge everything else.

While most tours are filled with happiness and laughter, I’ve also shared tears with my clients. It’s amazing to be a part of something so much bigger, and I have made friends worldwide through my years of touring.

Cami and Bessi

Do you have favorite activities or destinations here in Iceland you want to recommend to my readers?

Oh my goodness, let me tell you about my love for the highlands! Exploring the black sand desert, surrounded by glaciers and mountains, is an absolute thrill. But you know what’s just as exhilarating? Witnessing the magnificent transformation of the waterfalls in winter, when they’re completely frozen over and glistening with icicles! And let me tell you, my obsession with glaciers and ice caving is next level! There’s something so magical and awe-inspiring about trekking through a glacier and exploring its icy caverns. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I cannot get enough of!

So, as usual, I will focus on what I´m obsessed with. I’m going to be offering glacier hiking and ice-caving tours soon, so that is something I can definitely recommend.

Jón, that´s our next trip together! Cami and I will take you and Hallveig on a glacier hike!

What advice do you give those visiting Iceland for the first time?

Don’t go overboard with your schedule! Give yourself some breathing room to wander and discover the hidden gems. Don’t be in such a hurry to snap a quick selfie and bolt to the next spot. Take in the stunning scenery, bask in the beauty, and soak up the awesomeness.

And here’s a pro tip: one trip won’t be enough. This island is so addictive that you’ll keep coming back for more. Don’t worry, there’s no cure for it, and that’s a good thing!