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I recently rediscovered my joy of reading. I got myself a library card and am now tearing through books. Mostly, I read Icelandic crime novels, but I am slowly branching into other genres. However, I suspect that Nordic Noir crime novels set in Iceland will continue to be my favorite. Iceland is not precisely known as a hotbed of crime, which may be part of the appeal this niche genre has for me. Finnish-born author Satu Rämö is one of the authors who nourishes my thirst for top-quality, gritty crime novels set in Iceland.

The lovely restaurant Tjöruhús at Ísafjörður
The lovely restaurant Tjöruhús at Ísafjörður

Satu first arrived in Iceland in 2003 and never went back. She now lives with her Icelandic husband and two children in one of my favorite places in Iceland, Ísafjörður. Before stepping into crime fiction, Satu became a communications entrepreneur, digital creator, and nonfiction author who explored Icelandic culture through travel books and memoirs. Her protagonist in her crime series is the brilliant but troubled Icelandic police woman Hildur Rúnarsdóttir. She has an unlikely ally in her Finnish-born colleague Jakob Johanson. 

I recently read the first book of the Hildur series on my Kindle—The Clues in the Fjord —and it deserves its popularity. It perfectly captures the atmosphere of the remote Westfjords. If I were to describe the story in one word, I suppose the adjective ‘chilling’ suits the book very well. I look forward to reading the follow-up novels: The Grave in the Ice & The Shadow of the Northern Lights. Furthermore, we will all be able to see the story come to life in the Hildur TV series, which is in production.

 

In this interview for Stuck in Iceland, I spoke to Satu about the Westfjords, what makes Ísafjörður the perfect setting for crime fiction, and her travel advice for my readers.

 

Panoramic view of Ísafjörður, a picturesque town in the Westfjords of Iceland, nestled between steep mountains and a calm fjord, with colorful houses, a cruise ship docked in the harbor, and lush summer greenery under a clear blue sky — perfect for highlighting Iceland’s remote beauty and small-town charm.
Finnish born author Satu Rämö loves the town of Ísafjörður and what is not to love?

Hey Satu, thank you so much for taking the time for the interview. I watched an interview with you in which you said that Hildur was a person you came up with during the COVID lockdown. She represented a person you wanted to meet and hang out with. Now, I imagine you and Hildur have spent much time together. How is the friendship between you and her going?

It is going very well, thanks for asking. Hildur and I have gotten closer book by book. The more I write about her, the more familiar she feels. She has her own will, of course, and I cannot totally control her even though I try. We have chats every now and then, arguing about things. Like what are the best pizza toppings, which guy to spend some time with, and so on

I also need to ask, where does Jakob come from?

I´m originally from Finland, but I write Icelandic crime stories that take place in Iceland. I felt that it would be strange to write without any strings to Finland. Quite in the beginning, after interviewing Hildur and creating her life story, I knew there must be a Finn in the story as well.

Somebody who is totally not like me (a tall guy who loves knitting). I´m rather a short woman, and I didn´t know how to knit a “lopapeysa”, an Icelandic woolen sweater, before I made Jakob do it. He taught me knitting. I had to learn it to be able to write about it. And nowadays I also knit for myself. I love it! I have given out two knitting books together with an Icelandic friend of mine, Sigridur Sif Gylfadóttir. She is an avalanche specialist working for the “Vedurstofan” here in Isafjördur, and she is also a knitter and a pattern designer. Naturally 🙂 Icelanders have always had more than just one job at a time.

Historic fish factory in Ísafjörður, Iceland, featuring a tall concrete chimney, weathered industrial buildings, and surrounding snow-capped mountains — a striking example of the town’s maritime heritage and remote Westfjords setting under a partly cloudy sky.
The old herring factory at Djúpavík in the Westfjords of Iceland.

You came here first in 2002 as an Economics exchange student. What made you stay in Iceland and then move to Ísafjörður with your family?

I have known Iceland since I was a child. I watched a lovely children’s TV series in the 1980s in Finland. It was called Nonni & Manni. At the same time, I learned Iceland has a female president, Vigdís. I thought that was also so cool, because we were exactly then talking in Finland about whether a woman could be a priest. Thanks to Nonni, Manni, and Vigdis, Iceland felt extremely interesting, wonderful, and a modern country to me. When I saw that it was possible to apply to the University of Iceland in Reykjavik to take a semester as an Erasmus student, I decided to do it. So here we are. 🙂 Then later in Iceland, I met my husband in a bar in Reykjavik (Kaffibarinn, of course) and decided to stay.

We lived over 10 years in the center of Reykjavik, and at some point, we just got a wild idea to move to the countryside. Isafjördur was our first option. The cross-country skiing possibilities here are best in Iceland, and there are a lot of climbing routes, mountain biking, and bouldering for my family members. 

Charming street scene in Ísafjörður, a picturesque town in Iceland’s Westfjords, where brightly painted houses and peaceful mountain views create a postcard-perfect moment.
A quiet street in Ísafjörður, Iceland, lined with colorful wooden houses painted in red, blue, yellow, and white, with parked cars and distant mountains partially covered in clouds.

I am a massive fan of Ísafjörður and the Westfjords. What made you discover that the Westfjords are the perfect setting for a crime novel?

I always want to be in the location that I write about. It was COVID  time, and it was not possible to travel. I was working a lot in the travel industry and advertising before the pandemic started. All of a sudden, I’m out of work, out of money, and have plenty of time to do whatever I like, but I´m not allowed to go anywhere!

So I just started to think… maybe now is the time to create something new and try out if I am able to write fiction. Isafjördur is such a peaceful and calm place, almost never anything happens here. But if it did happen… how could we cope? How would the local police cope? I started to make all kinds of scenarios, build a game for myself, and then I just realised I have to start writing these stories down. So the location kind of came to me. I didn’t choose it, it chose me. 

Small town, big nature, not so many people… The surface seems very calm… It is a perfect setup for a small village crime mystery. 

Remote geothermal pool Krossneslaug in the Westfjords of Iceland, perched on a grassy coastline with waves crashing against black volcanic rocks and snow-dusted mountains rising in the distance — a serene and dramatic destination for nature lovers seeking hot spring experiences in the wild.

What do your friends and neighbors in Isafjordur and the Westfjords think about their home being portrayed as a crime scene in a book and now on TV?

I think they take it pretty well. At least I only hear people being happy about it. When the Hildur TV Series 1st season was filmed here in Iceland, half of the scenes were actually done here in Isafjörður. The cast & crew took over the hotel and guest houses for 5 weeks; we had at least 70 people altogether here shooting the series. So at that point, everybody knew. Many locals took part in the production; many locals were in small roles in the scenes. I think it was a great experience for everybody.

Portrait of Finnish author Satu Ramö standing in a blooming lupine field by the sea in Iceland, wearing a bright red sweater and smiling at the camera — a vibrant and natural setting reflecting her Nordic roots and literary connection to Iceland.
Author Satu Rämö is surrounded by blooming lupines in coastal Iceland, a perfect blend of literature and nature. Photo by Björgvin Hilmarsson.

How do Icelandic and Finnish cultures differ—and where do they overlap?

I think we are rather similar. On the edges of the Nordic countries, a pretty weird language that nobody else understands (so we speak English together, haha), we are the only countries in the Nordics that are not a monarchy. Finland has been a part of Sweden in the old times, Iceland has been a part of Norway and Denmark… So there are many similarities there, and I think it affects our identity for sure. Icelanders are a bit louder and with stronger self-esteem than Finns, on average, I mean. Finns are so used to being close to Russia and being aware of the Eastern neighbour, while Icelanders have had more relaxing times on their pretty island without any neighbors next door. Icelanders are more doing, not planning. Finns are more planning, more careful in executing. So I think together we are a pretty strong team!

Snow-covered mountains in Iceland’s Westfjords reflected in calm Arctic waters during sunset, with soft pink and purple hues lighting up the sky — a breathtaking example of Iceland's remote and untouched natural beauty.
Winter sunrise in the Westfjords of Iceland.

What are your favorite places and activities in Iceland?

Cross country skiing in the wintertime in Isafjördur, hiking in the north (Fjörður) in the summertime, bathing in a sauna in Isafördur (it is called Vestfjardagusan, it is 3 km from Isafjörður, next to the sea, I love it!), weightlifting anywhere with a nice gym with free weights. 😀

What advice would you give travelers visiting the Westfjords for the first time?

Go at least once to Tjöruhusið for dinner (best fish ever, booking in advance is a must), take relaxing baths in the hot tubs around the Westfjords, if possible, go hiking in Vesturgata, it is beautiful out there in the summer. If you have time, a boat trip from Isafjörður to Hornstrandir is lovely (but only if the weather is good, the sea trip is not nice if it is very windy, but on a calm sunny day, the trip is so so nice, the nature there is something totally different).

Things to do in the Westfjörds in the summer

During summertime, I would visit my favorite hotel in Iceland, Hotel Djupavik in Strandir (the eastern part of the Westfjords). A few days there relaxing, eating good food, hiking in the quiet surroundings, and swimming in the Krossneslaug, a pool on the edge of the world. This is the best thing to do in the summertime here in the Westfjords.