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I thought I knew more or less about all the fantastic places in Iceland. But before this summer, I had never heard about the impressive crater of Rauðibotn in the Fjallabak nature reserve highlands. I had no idea about the nearby lagoon of Hólmsárlón with the stunningly beautiful little waterfall formed by the overflow from the lagoon. Therefore, visiting those places last summer with my great friend and photographer Martin Schulz was delightful. On our summer trip, we discovered many wonders of the Icelandic highlands, including Langisjór.
Rauðibotn is not very accessible. If you do not want to ford the often intense Hólmsá river, you must take a detour on the F-roads to get to this natural wonder. On our way to Rauðibotn, we took a detour to look at the impressive Axlarfoss waterfall in the Hólmsá river. From the parking lot on the Mælifellssandur, you follow a track northwest, and you will reach the giant ‘amphitheater” that is Rauðibotn.
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Rauðibotn looks like a single crater resulting from a massive volcanic explosion. However, it is just one ‘small’ part of the giant Eldgjá volcanic system that erupted catastrophically in 934. It is, for example, much bigger than the Skaftáreldar eruption in 1783. The resulting hardship caused by that eruption killed 10.000 people or 20% of the entire Icelandic population. One theory is that the eruption at Eldgjá inspired the description of Ragnarrök, or the end of the world, in the ancient Edda poem. It is also theorized that Iceland’s settlement stopped due to the eruption.
But these are just conjectures and guesses. Nobody really to what degree the settlers in Iceland were affected by the cataclysm. And, of course, that thing may go off again at any time, which would be a bummer.

The name Rauðibotn means red bottom (hnarf, hnarf) and takes its name after the red rust rocks in the crater. On the crater is a pretty still pool with bright green moss.
Although Rauðibotn is truly impressive in its size and grandeur, I was transfixed by a little waterfall that is the outflow of the Hólmsárlón lagoon. You can go right to the lagoon’s edge and stand there like watching an infinity pool. Then this crystal clear little waterfall flows intensely out of the lagoon and contributes to the river below it. This small waterfall and its beauty enamored me. There is at least another pretty waterfall in the river, but this wonderful small waterfall fascinated and frankly hypnotized me.
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Jón Heiðar Ragnheiðarson — Reykjavík-based Iceland Travel Editor since 2012
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I'm Jón, a native Icelander who has called Reykjavík home for over 30 years. Since 2012, I've been running this magazine the way a knowledgeable local friend would — giving you the honest advice, the real discounts from 50+ partners in the Icelandic travel industry, and 200+ expert interviews you won't find anywhere else. This is Iceland from the inside.
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