On a sunny Thursday spring morning, I found myself running toward the edge of a mountain. Suddenly, I felt a strong lift, like a giant hand was gently tugging at me, and I was flying. I settled into my seat and let out an involuntary whoop of sheer joy. Before me, a spectacular view: the deep blue sea, waves lapping against a black sand beach. When I turned, I saw a cliff where Kittiwakes were nesting close to me. I was living the dream, flying with my partners at True Adventure. If you want to soar with the Kiittiwakes, subscribe to my free and exclusive newsletter to receive a code for 10% off their tandem paragliding tours and zip line escapades.

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Unlikely flier takes to the skies

I have always feared heights, although this has subsided over the years. One of my dad jokes is that I am the only Association of People with Fear of Heights member who has completed the 24-peak hike across the rugged mountain range west of Akureyri. So, the idea of paragliding was beyond me for a long time. But last summer, I teamed up with the Vík-based True Adventure, which runs zipline and paragliding experiences there. I was intrigued when I learned their paragliding adventures are done from the imposing 340-meter-high Reynisfjall next to the village of Vík.

My wife, Hallveig, and I had planned to join True Adventures on their tandem Paragliding adventure on a Thursday morning since it was a day off here in Iceland. It is one of those religious days that sometimes comes on a Thursday during spring here in Iceland. The upshot is that we atheists still get the day off #Win!+

Video: Tandem Paragliding in Vík

Paragliding with True Adventure in Vík, Iceland

Dolly Parton causes tension on the highway

As so often, my wife Hallveig took the initiative. She disliked waking up early and driving for two and a half hours to be on time for the eleven-clock flight. Hallveig called me at work and asked if she could pick me up after work. She had booked a room at Hotel Katla, and we could drive there to have dinner, relax at the hotel, and show up for our paragliding with True Adventure at 11 in the morning, well-rested and in top form. It was a date. We had an excellent drive to the hotel and decided to have a song-diva theme for our playlist. I was disappointed when my wife politely asked me not to play the fifth version of Dolly Parton’s masterpiece, ‘Jolene’ in a row. She also said that the superb White Stripe rendition was not up to standard. Sometimes, marriage can be a challenge!

Welcome to my TED talk on the misery of 18th-century Iceland

We arrived at the hotel at dinnertime and soaked in the hot tub. I had an excellent time mansplaining geologic activity in Iceland and the country’s history to the people trying to relax there. Thanks for pretending to listen and nodding politely.

The key to paragliding in Iceland is understanding the wind

We drove to the pick-up point and met the paragliding pilots, Sammi and Þráinn. We drove up to the Víkurfjall, and the view there was beautiful enough. Then, I realized that I was in the hands of professionals. The guides assessed the wind, and one said to me as he pointed toward a flying bird: “See the bird there. It is flapping its wings, meaning the wind is changing and blowing more to the east.” It was obvious, of course!

Please sprint towards the cliff edge, Sir

Then, it was time to strap in the paragliding gear. It was easy, and Þráinn gave me simple instructions for what to do. He told me to sprint towards the edge of Mt. Reynisfjall. Somebody might ask: isn’t it scary to run toward the edge of a cliff? My answer would be that on most occasions: I would rather perform an open surgery on myself with a rusty teaspoon in the dark. However, the guides, Þráinn and Sammi, were so professional and on it. Þráinn told us that both of his daughters are licensed paragliding pilots. For this family, paragliding is like going skiing.

No, I won’t land us in the swimming pool!

Our flight was just amazing. The view and the flying with the Kittiwakes. The fun conversation that I had with Þráinn. Seeing the fantastic view. Þráinn took us smoothly past the imposing cliffs and told me that the seabirds there were apprehensive of paragliders for perhaps the first week, and then they get used to those huge ‘birds’ in their midst. Þráinn performed some aerobatics that reminded me of being in a roller coaster; cue another involuntary woohoo! We then started our descent; our landing spot was the village’s football (soccer) field. Surprisingly and disappointingly, Þráinn did not want to land in the swimming pool. Perhaps next time? In my opinion, our landing and my landing performance were flawless. However, I was devastated when I looked at the video from Sammi and my wife’s camera. I heard her say that she thought their landing was better. My answer to that is fake news!

Taking risks in the heat of the moment

After the landing, I was so full of endorphins that I hugged Þráinn without establishing whether he was the hugging kind. I can report that he is; otherwise, it could have been very awkward. Hallveig and I were both elated after the flight and agreed it was most of the fun adventures we had been on.

We drove home on this exquisite sunny day, stopping by the wonderful waterfall Kvernufoss. More on that later.

The irresistible Kvernufoss waterfall on the south coast of Iceland.
The irresistible Kvernufoss waterfall on the south coast of Iceland.